What goes on in my mind during a fitting

I still remember when I had my first fitting session: stepping out of the fitting room and standing in front of a mirror, with warm lights surrounding me. Standing in the middle of the room with only socks on because I was too lazy to tie my shoes. The fitters whizzed around with such speed and precision with pinning, conversing amongst themselves with lingo that sounds familiar, but is more akin to a foreign tongue in honesty. Before I’ve formulated my own thoughts on the fitting, they’re already done, arms crossed, waiting for my thoughts.

For people that have just placed an order, or are considering bespoke, the fitting process is likely one of the most intriguing and magical steps of the process. And yet, there’s a level of mystery behind this part of the process. As someone from the industry, I want to break down what goes on during fitting sessions, and to let you in on the little tidbits in the minds of fitters.

First and foremost, we must put on the garment properly. This sounds so obvious, and yet it’s very important. If the order was for high-waisted trousers, we simply can’t do the fitting properly with the trousers hanging low like we’re doing an early 2000’s MV; If the coat was made to fit with chunky turtlenecks, we will need the client to wear the appropriate knitwear. While we can often guesstimate with certain success, putting the fitting garment on properly often is the base for a good fitting session.

Fitters can often note straight away the obvious issues. It is the minor issues that require the most time and effort, especially when they are interconnected and have multiple ways of being addressed. It is at this point that we try pinning and poking and prodding (respectfully) at the client and the fitting garment in order to find the best solution for each individual client. 

With the technical issues sorted, we take a step back and remove our heads from the minutia, and look at the bigger picture. While technicalities are important to suss out, it needs to go hand in hand with a garment that looks right and stunning. Proportions, such as length and width, need to be considered with the wearers’ own body. And then there is the “secret sauce”: stylistic choices that complement the garment’s intended occasion, message, and the owner’s style.

Arguably, the most important aspect of the entire process is to ask for feedback from the customer. A bespoke piece is entirely custom made to fit, physically and stylistically, to every individual client, and we all have different takes on comfort and style. While we do reserve the right to go back and forth between an 8” or 9” leg opening with you, ultimately it’s this process of communication and experimentation, sprinkled with a touch of whimsy and showmanship, that makes the experience of bespoke tailoring so unique and interesting.

Bespoke fitting, I often like to think, is similar to golfing: sometimes you get a hole-in-one, where the fitting goes perfect and requires no adjustments at all; other times you might have to putt on the green for a bit, thinking about the adjustments to make to put the ball in the hole. Yet this is what makes it an intriguing line of work, no two fittings or commissions are the same, even if they're made by the same customer, with all the elements that could affect the outcome.